We decided we had to get out of the city of Huaraz because it's so noisy (from fire crackers, taxis beeping, dogs fighting and howling) and dirty from car exhaust. I had researched an eco-friendly inn located in the hills above Huaraz that seemed like a perfect escape and close to some of the hikes of the Cordillera Blanca. Close is, of course, relative. The map shows the Lazy Dog Inn 8 km from town, out of the city, but close enough to get supplies if needed. After our 50 minute, 30 Soles (about $10) taxi ride up a long, windy, bumpy road I thought, "We'll never be coming back down." Let's abandon our laundry that we've left in town." Unfortunately, this is par for every course or camino (path or trail).
Once arriving at the Lazy Dog, all is right with the world...beautiful, scenic, organic, friendly with every amenity. Dan and I actually have a marriage bed instead of two twins pushed together. Nate is so happy to be able to spend time outside playing with two Lab puppies and climbing on all the boulders.
The next day we feel refreshed and want to take a hike to the glacier which other hikers describe as an easy hike. We take a taxi to the top, on others suggestion, an hour drive up another bumpy road that has switchbacks that defy sense. We find that it is almost as fast to hike up as to drive, if you were in reasonably good shape and acclimated to the altitude. This taxi ride costs 100 Soles or about $35. After the hike back down, we decide that it was worth it.
The hike was about 6 hours across paths that mountain goats could probably traverse easily. I held my breath as Nate scrambled along, mentally keeping him from slipping and falling down some sheer rock face.
I think the pictures will tell the rest of the story. The glacier, much smaller now than 20 years ago, is stunning. I tried to paint it, futilely, finding I just have a picture of sky and few black dots. Dan and Nate explored the glacier a little closer, finding an ice cave and climbing the many large boulders.
Today I rest up from the hike and try to hydrate, having bouts of altitude sickness which can be, but not limited to, headaches, nausea and fatigue. The Peruvians serve coco matte, a tea which cures everything from cancer to constipation. It tastes like steeped grass, which Nate just describes as tasting green. We want to go visit the lakes region, a 3 hour taxi ride each way. That probably means its just over the mountain from here. I'm trying to prepare myself mentally....perhaps some coco matte will help.
I get bad altitude sickness, as I found out when I stayed with Liz in Teluride at 9500ft. It went away in 3 days and then I felt great and never wanted to leave. But ever since that first bad sickness, I'm now super sensitive to barometric pressure changes.
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